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Think of Mayuri Indian Restaurant as a user-friendly ethnic enclave on the banks of, uh, Las Colinas. No, it's not New Dehli, but it comes close culinarily.
The spare, clean and noisy space serves intricately spiced fare that almost never overwhelms the sinuses or the taste buds. Multiple choices of sauces and chutneys moderate the intensity of many dishes for those less tolerant of chili or curry burn.

It's also a friendly place to eat, for several reasons. The fairly priced lunch buffet is large and diverse. Both northern and southern Indian dishes are available separately and as part of combo meals. Full dinners come with the chef's choice of soup and two curries plus a cool yogurt and cucumber dish, bread and dessert. Besides, the food just about can't be beat.

Paneer pakora, battered and deep-fried chunks of mild Indian cheese, and vegetable samosas were both fresh and greaseless. Moong masala dosa, a green lentil flour crepe nearly two feet in diameter rolled around a potato and vegetable filling, was a star. It came with two incredible chutneys, sambar (a flavorful reduction of vegetables), ghee (clarified butter) and pure-fire spice.

Shrimp biryani, large shrimp in a mound of seasoned basmati rice accompanied by a fiery curry, was delicious without the curry and intense with it. Chicken jhal faraizi was also a standout, with its crunchy stir-fried vegetables and large chunks of tender white meat combed and baked in a rich tomato-based gravy.

A broader wine and beer list would better this wonderful find, as would a more succinct way of packing leftovers; takeout containers are sluffed off onto diners at the end.

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